the beauty report: Garren salon

I am terrible at making scheduling hair appointments in advance. To further compound my habit, salons are now featuring summer hours and making an appointment is a cat and mouse game of leaving messages and hoping for a callback. So my boyfriend's birthday was Tuesday and after buying him the perfect birthday outfit, I decided I was in much need of some polish, namely for my split ends. I'm a downtown salon sort of girl. I've been to Ringo Yip in LES, Dop Dop, Laicale and Ueno in Nolita to name a few. I have always been satisfied with my cuts (the average quality of stylists in NYC is great), but I have never been blown away with the results, thereby explaining my salon promiscuity. The best cut I've ever had was in Paris in 2002 by a Hong Kong native who moved to London to train at Vidal Sassoon but somehow ended up in a Toni & Guy salon in Paris. Bizarre, but the haircut was perfect, basic and surprising-- my face was suddenly framed into a pleasing and unforeseen structure. I have yet to meet a stylist to meet up to those now probably mythical expectations.

After calling for last minute appointments at the downtown salons I have already frequented, I came up empty. Because I am often in Midtown for work, I thought to call some salons there to see what I came up with. If I was going to go Midtown, I was going to go the whole fancy deal. I called Warren-Tricomi and unfortunately was greeted with quite a bit of phone snobbery when I asked for prices of stylists. Honestly, in these recessionary times, it makes absolutely no sense to be higher than thou when talking prices. Besides, every well-heeled woman I know, demand prices and unabashedly so. Next up I called Garren. Asian hair is notoriously difficult to cut, so I always ask for a stylist who is "good with Asian hair". Being so, I have always been assigned an Asian stylist and have become trusting and confident in them. The receptionist at Garren recommended Robert, who happened to have an evening appointment open. I jumped at the appointment and only felt nervous when the scheduled time approached. Each salon has cultivated a culture that it has fiercely honed, like every other specialized thing in this city.

Robert turned out to be Robert Vasquez, an energetic Latino with not a Asian bone in sight. He immediately said that I should keep my long hair and that my hair had been too layered. Asian hair is too often too layered because stylists don't know what to do with the thickness of each strand, he pronounced. He also noticed that my hair was longer on the right side than the left. I knew it! I had told the previous stylist, which she adamantly denied. While, he deftly snipped away, I surveyed my surroundings over an iced cappuccino.

Garren is named after the eponymous Garren, who has been the countless source of many a career-making haircut for actresses and socialites alike. According to Teen Vogue, Garren works 10 days a month at the salon he started at the Sherry-Netherland. The address itself speaks volumes, 59th and 5th. Serious Upper East Side socialite territory. It just so happened to be that I caught a glimpse of Garren on one those ten days. He faintly reminded me of a lean Ben Kingsley. There was certainly an air of hyper perfectionist in him. With haircuts by Garren in the $700 range, the salon, for good reason, knew their clientèle by name. Most of the ladies there were distinguished to say the least. I suddenly felt a little old, or maybe also young, depending on how you viewed the circumstance. This certainly wasn't the downtown set and the handbag selection of the clientèle alone was intimidating.

Still, I was a little suspicious as I saw the stylist next to me teasing out his client's mane into a helmet bouffant. I also saw more than one client with rollers in her hair waiting to have her hair blown out. Was the salon dated? By the time it was for my blowout, Robert also began roller-esque pinning, which worried me-- I was going to be teased to death if I came home with pageant hair--but I decided to keep my trap shut. The blowout turned out to be beautiful and bouncy and for some reason Pantene advertisements came to mind. That evening, I was getting lovely compliments from the best source, the queens. The ultimate test, however, is when you shampoo your own hair because a sleek blowout can hide many a error. After swimming class yesterday, I washed it out with gym shampoo and conditioner no less, and the haircut was just as beautiful as before. Suddenly I see how the ladies of Upper East Side know a thing or two. I've been converted, well if only to visit Robert and the Garren crew.

Garren New York Salon
Sherry Netherland Hotel
Mezzanine Level
781 Fifth Avenue
New York, NY 10022
212-841-9400

Robert Vasquez's cuts start at $125.

noir inspiration

Karl Lagerfeld, Fall 2008, backstage




Fendi, petal trimmed dress, net-a-porter

Alexander Wang, Fall 2008

Yves Saint Laurent, Fall 2008, ready-to-wear

I stopped by McNally Robinson on Prince Street yesterday to check out if they had any copies of the "all-black" Italian Vogue. No luck. However, I did get a chance to flip-through the latest French Vogue with Daria Werbowy on the cover. Among all the fashion mags out there, I've always had a soft spot for French Vogue. Sure there are edgier mags out there, Dazed and Confused, i-D and HUGE to name a few. But every time I open up a French Vogue, I think, if I had that kind of access, this is exactly how I would dress. The look for Fall is noir, noir et plus noir. Add texture to the mix and a darkly smoked eye, and it's the Left Bank calling.

for the sporty set

Y-3 Fall 2008


Alexander McQueen for Puma, Fall/Winter 2008

I was just at The Puma Black store and Y-3 yesterday shopping for a birthday gift. My idea of sportswear is a cashmere polo, so I don't frequent those stores very often. But the latest collaborations between Alexander McQueen and Puma are darkly sporty with black patent leather and white calf's hair. After chatting with sales associate, word is that the Fall shipment is arriving in early to mid-September. I'm also in love with Y-3 "kabuki" sneakers that are already in the W13th store.

ruffle my feathers

Jennifer Ouellete, extra-wide feather headband, Barney's
Etro, Fall 2008
Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2008
Dries Van Noten, Fall 2008
Elizabeth and James


Boy by Band of Outsiders Fall 2008
I just returned from much needed beach time in Amagansett. It was my first time there and somehow the low-key spot has avoided the shiny pitfalls of "luxurious nature", even though the sleepy town is sandwiched between East Hampton and Montauk. Best of all were the nature preserves that were abundant with eagles, deer and even a gigantic turkey that we saw crossing on Cranberry Lane (how Fall appropriate!). Perhaps such was the inspiration for the fur and plumage on Fall runways, to take flight, to escape or more probably, to strut and preen. Throw in some country-inspired prints and its a nature preserve for the metropolitan set.

OAK sample sale this Friday!

accessories report: for the Material Girl

Givenchy, Fall 2008, ready-to-wear

Balenciaga, Fall 2008
Alexander McQueen, Fall 2008, ready-to-wear


The Material Girl herself, for Like a Virgin.

With lace suddenly back in vogue and pearls making an assured comeback on the Fall runways, my first impression was that the looks were heading in the direction of 1950s ladylike ensembles. But then I came across some 1980s Madonna pics and with this seasons layered necklaces suddenly the "Like a Virgin" accessories were surprisingly modern (well Boy Toy belt aside). Tack on some lace and Catholic-inspired jewelery, and I guess the material girl knows a thing or two.. now about her choice in rebound men...

leather and lace

Daks by Giles Deacon, Fall 2008

Balmain, Fall 2008

Already an editorial favorite, Prada's Fall 2008 ready-to-wear featured guipure lace.

Alexander McQueen, Fall 2008 ready-to-wear

The Fall runways were generally subdued with a somber autumnal palette. Interspersed with all this seriousness was an interjection of seriously tailored leather and lace numbers in fashion favorite black. I'm particularly keen on blending the two for the ultimate power ensemble.

Kitsuné, king of collabs

Kitsuné Tabloid x Digitalism
Kitsuné x Pierre Hardy


Kitsuné x James Heely , gingerbread candle
Named after the folklore symbol for the fox, French collective Kitsuné has been busy with collaborations. Check out their new items at Colette's EShop.

trend alert: Fall hats

Dolce & Gabbana, Fall 2008 ready-to-wear

3.1 Phillip Lim, Fall 2008 ready-to-wear

Comme des Garçons, Fall 2008 ready-to-wear
Dior, Fall 2008 haute couture


Perhaps it's the sober recessionary times, but hats have made it back in a big way. For one reason or another, a covered head speaks of modesty and upper classes, which makes perfect sense for the newly poor, as Gabriel García Márquez so beautifully described in Love in the Time of Cholera. For Fall, the muted tones and buttoned up patterns go perfectly with an accessorized head. Plus saying words like chapeau and tête , conjure up images of espresso and croissants or for those more reactionary, probation-inspired revelries. Perhaps in a vein of democracy, designs have ranged from lady-like, posh to the flapper helmet armor at Dior haute couture.

gondry + band = t-shirt

THE WILLOWZ

In step with their tour in France this year, Anaheim, California band THE WILLOWZ has released a t-shirt with April77 of skinny jean fame. The t-shirt is part of their artist of the month series and was designed by the son of Michel Gondry (who they never actually name but is simply referred to as "the son of," poor thing). Still the t-shirt makes me want to bring back my Seattle angst as a band t-shirt, Airwalk wearing teen.

You can also download THE WILLOWZ single here.

the new black

Complex Geometries, Oak NYC

Barbara Bui exclusive, Jake
With the mind-boggling sweaty weather, I do like most New Yorkers do and have a mental block when it comes to August. True it is only halfway through July, but it's a true optimist who can find metropolitan pleasure in the smelly subway stations (the 6 at 51st street is the worst!) or madly steaming sewers. As such, this is the time when I care less about fashion and more about comfort and any remaining commitment to summer fashion goes out the window. I'm happily looking towards Fall, when once again those beautiful New York breezes graze the alleyways and a light jacket is necessary. Here are a couple black basics from the Fall previews that I love.

menswear and birthdays

Satyenkumar harrington bomber

Jil Sander Giappone hooded mesh jacket

Linda Farrow x Bernhard Willhem Visor Sunglasses

Linda Farrow x Raf Simons

Original Sins
My boyfriend's birthday is coming up and I'm been scouring New York for some inspiration. But as the story goes, the more you look for something the less you're likely to find it. My guesses as to why I haven't found anything include 1) the tourists have snapped it up like goldfish to fish flakes, 2) there is low stock because of the recession so there are sales but no sizes and 3) New York is turning pedestrian. As much as I would like to deny the latter, I've seen more inspiration as of late from London retailers and designers. One of my favorite online perusals is Oki-ni. Launched in London in 2001 as a fashion collaborative, the website made a turn towards selling only menswear in 2007 (to my sadness). I can't feel too bad about it however, as I hear boys complain about how there are discriminately less in-the-know retailers for menswear. Luckily for them (and those in search of gifts), Oki-ni is having a 70% sale. www.oki-ni.com

the young and unjaded

It's already past the middle of July and friends of mine are going to "market." Translated, that means that their fashion company is going to men's market, which is this week, the Miami swim market is this Thursday and women's market is fast approaching. This is also the time when young designers make their mark, wining and whining buyers with their wares. Check out a couple of the designers I'm excited to see.

Unholy Matrimony was started by Brett Westfall, an artist with a manifesto of collaborating between the art and fashion divide. Although the brand launched in 2003, Westfall has stayed relatively under the radar choosing only coveted collaborations with Opening Ceremony and now Comme des Garcons Homme Plus for Spring/Summer '09 below. Watch out for his pop-up store coming this fall to Fred Segal via edgy L.A. retailer Hollywood Trading Company.




Stine Goya, Fall/Winter '08. The self-named Danish line debuted at Copenhagen Fashion Week in February 2007. I'm looking forward to seeing what Swedish online retailer, Tres Bien Shop, will have in stock.

80s, early 90s and going strong

Look at this shoulder. It could be a 80s prom fashion tragedy, but thankfully its Chanel Haute Couture, Fall 2008. Funny how the line can be so thin, n'est-ce pas?

Agyness Deyn

House of Holland, Fall 2008
Some skeptics thought the 1980s revival was just a passing trend in fashion circles. With model paramours like Agyness Deyn leading the way, the 80s are still going strong after a few seasons of dabbling in shoulder pads and neon colors. In these doldrum days of paycheck worries, I say hey, why not? I also saw the other day that Paula Abdul will be playing the free Today Show concert at Rockefeller Center on August 29th. Aside from the hopeful fact that most of us will be far away from the steaming concrete of New York in August, that gives us exactly 45 days of shopping time to support a Paula Abdul revival. I admit it, I was a Cold-hearted Snake fan. Of course I jest about Paula, but the runways are still replete with 80s inspired designs. I've noticed some early nineties Clueless or Gossip Girl (whatever your generation) getups as well. I guess times do change.

off the cuff

Balenciaga, F/W '08

Tom Binns, at net-a-porter.com


I walked into Edon Manor in Tribeca yesterday and promptly fell in love with a Nina Ricci runway cuff. I'm a big chunky jewelry fan with a bit of unisex flair. My previous go-tos have been Surface to Air's men's jewelery and when my bank account is feeling particularly flush, I look to Tom Binns. Lately, I've also started wearing two, one on each wrist-- perhaps, I was inspired by the Metropolitan Costume Institute Gala's superhero tribute. But the cuffs for fall are much more ladylike with intricate wiring and sparkling with jewels. Perhaps the designers that get it are sensing that with the economy in the pits, funds are devoted to well-tailored basics coupled with a blinding piece or two of compliment-inducing accessories. The cuff captures attention without being arrogantly show-stopping, which makes for a casually sophisticated comment on sober times.

art of the shoe, MIROÏKE

I just read an article today in the New York Times that talked about how the Broadway musical Rent is ending its run after 12 years. The article was less an ode to the musical as it was a swan song to the New York bohemian life. So much has been written about how New York is dying as an artistic city and that in such ashes have arisen a Gotham Disneyland, yet where do we see an end? Should we stay and fight for an artistic renaissance as so many of us hold out in hopes that there will be a crash in the real estate market? Or should we run and take refuge in artist hospitable cities like Amsterdam and now Warsaw? Berlin arose while New York's art scene became a land of trust fund art scenesters and word is that artists are now also moving further east in search of space and cheaper rent. Perhaps it is as so many say, a cycle where artistic cities take themselves too seriously and are replaced by the young, gritty and open-minded. Now Berlin even has its own fashion week which kicks off July 17th and runs through July 20th. Undeniably, there have been a spate of interesting designers from Berlin. I'm particularly looking forward to the C.Neeon show. But amidst all this fashion seriousness is a light-hearted art installation by shoewear line MIROÏKE at Galeries Lafayette, Friedrichstrasse 76-78. Called the HI-HEEL-WHEEL, the installation will be on exhibit from July 14th to July 26th. Despite its whimsy, I can't help but feel that the wheel is also a sordid comment on the artist migration cycle. Check it out while Berlin is still art relevant.

drop-crotch, skinny pants

Rag & Bone, F/W '08

Nina Ricci, F/W '08

Givenchy, F/W '08
Since moving to New York, I have been a fan of the dress. I used to be a West Coast jeans girl, but a dress in the city can carry you to work, some fancy Midtown meeting, downtown party or wine on a private roofdeck all with fashionable ease. For Fall, the runways had plenty of pant looks but while I love that aggressive pantsuit vibe, I'm not 5'11" so I tend to look more like a football linebacker than a svelte swan. Besides, the pant trends of late have ranged from the I-can't-sit-they're-too-tight to the ridiculously dropped crotch pants perfect only for forays into the desert. But the other day while on my lunch, I saw a girl wearing a pair of trousers with a tailored-in cuff, narrow leg, but a relaxed thigh, slightly dropped crotch and high waist. The effect was dreamily louche glamour and evoked Marlene Dietrich rather than wishes that I had my 14-year old thighs back. I re-scouted the Fall runways excited for a new look. I particularly adore the modern toreador vibe at Givenchy.

a bit of translation, Shanghai style

photos from fashiontrenddigest.com
Adidas partyShanghai X-Games

on the street, Shanghai

I hear daily of the Beijing Olympics, how it's in less than a month, how the Chinese government is getting creative with its air pollution policies and how no one knows whether the media will be allowed quality access. Here at la gata lista, I'd much prefer to speculate on other matters underlying such hypotheticals. I read somewhere that China is now the third largest consumer of luxury handbags in the world and with such a population, it's safe to say Chinese consumers are just starting. There has also been a good amount of Chinese models now populating those runways (Mo Wandan and Du Juan being my favorites). A recent issue of W magazine, Korea edition, featured Chinese models with Du Juan making a fantastic cover. Being from Taiwan, some cross-Asian love always gets me going. And with the spawn of the Sartorialist, street fashion has become the ultimate fashion bible, it's genius lying in a blend of reachable accessibility and voyeurism. For a peek into Shanghai street style, my favorite online go-to is Fashiontrenddigest.com. While not everyone can read the language, photos speak for themselves and even though fashion is still really a developing thing in China, like its economy, things happen at lightning speeds.

accessories report: couture bondage

Anne Valérie Hash, Fall 2008 Couture

Jean Paul Gaultier, Fall 2008 Couture

NY Times, featuring Carine Roitfeld

Christian Dior, Fall 2008 Couture
The couture runways were hot with hardware and chainmail accessories. Having spent my youth lolling around the Seattle Capitol Hill scene, goth, punk and bondage references have always been a soft spot for me. They take any basic run-of-the-mill dress to the dark side, and I've found the edginess suits New York's concrete jungle just fine. Carine Roitfeld, the editrix at French Vogue (and my favorite fashion tastemaker), has long rocked the bondage look to much coveted effect. I'm particularly in love with Dior's "toe armor".

in the red

Jasmin Santanen, Fall 2008

Y-3, Fall 2008 collection

Christian Lacroix, falbala trench, for La Redoute

Japanese Numéro editorial, May 2008, model: Iekeline Stange

Being that most of us are in the red, and word on the street is that the financial sector is going to send more cattle off to slaughter, it's only appropriate that the color red has been making its long awaited comeback. Also with the Beijing Olympics a month away, red has never been more age and time appropriate. Downtown, red tights and jeans have already been sighted on gallerinas and magazine editors for the past season. I've been looking for chunky red necklaces and full-on power dresses for Fall.

pre-order your Mayle

Kaori dress, pre-order, Satine


fabienne vest, pre-order, shopjake
I love the high neck and linked side. Reminds me of knights' armor translated to modern day.

My July 4th plans were canceled last minute. Thus, no Southampton beach time for this West Coaster in the city. However, I have read somewhere that retail therapy is indeed true. Your pupils dilate and your heart kicks into high gear when you see a beautiful piece or when you find an amazing deal. So if I am in the city I might as well indulge in a city-like way, which is really to say let my subconscious run its gamut in some retail therapy. But there are so many seasons now (6 seasons was what I was last told) that I am buying anything from darker colors from the late spring shipment to pre-fall, whatever that may be. One safe bet is one of my favorites, Jane Mayle, and she really knows the way to a girl's heart. When I worked at Barney's for my brief stint on the women's contemporary floor, I always pushed Mayle. Her store in Nolita is literally busting at the seams with stylish fashionistas who constantly field queries like, "Where did you get that dress?" Beat those girls to the starting gates by pre-ordering online.

consignment binge and sizing issues

1956 Christian Dior Wool Couturier Coat, Poppy's Vintage

Vintage Pierre Balmain, vintagedesignerclothing

Vintage Nina Ricci gown, from Decades
I bought a black 1960s Nina Ricci jacket yesterday for $75. I was ecstatic; at first I thought it might have been the two cappuccinos that I downed at lunch, but upon hanging up my purchase, yes, I was just as thrilled as before. With the dollar down and Phillip Lim dresses suddenly in the $400 to $1000 range, my shopping habits have been seriously curbed. I've been a regular at consignment shops on the sly, or so I thought. New York Times ran an article on June 12th about how nationwide even material ladies are suddenly buying designer vintage on Ebay and the esteemed Michael's Consignment on the Upper East Side has seen more business than last year. Still, even with the NY Times article out, I thought girls my age (twenties) were still doing the downtown/Brooklyn thrift store thing. But yesterday's conversation with an unnamed consignment store proprietor proved me entirely off track. Apparently, not only are women of all ages stopping by, they are doing so every day, with fingers ready to snatch up a fresh consignment. One time I dallied on an $800 Chanel purse that one groomed lady was just selling, only to come back in an hour to see its shelf space already replaced with the next consignment. New York does drive me mad with its competition sometimes.

On the other hand, the quality of vintage is completely worth it. After a modern Zac Posen, a vintage Givenchy navy and white striped skirt, a modern beige Chanel, vintage Chanel and finally the winner, the 60s Nina Ricci, the fit on the vintages couldn't be beat. Usually a size four in Zac Posen, the hips didn't fit, which made be reconsider my lunch and possible hangover water retention. I had to size up one size on the vintages but the waists were perfectly nipped and the shoulders were set properly, whereas the modern pieces seemed to be made on a different dress form. I followed up my purchase with an evening of perusing Balenciaga and Valentino books at McNally Robinson, the cozy book store on Prince Street, where I noticed that the house models on the glossy pages were proportionate and svelte, but not in the angular, adroygynous way the runways are today. Perhaps we should suggest new fit models for today?

Especially with online shopping, I have always counted on ordering certain brands because I know my sizing. I am always a Dolce & Gabbana 38. I am usually a UK 8, except for Sophia Kokolaski in which I am UK10. But as I was comparing the modern pieces with the vintages, I realized that I hadn't even noticed before that my current pieces don't fit, well, perfect. If I am shelling out for designer wares, the lucky $75 vintage purchase aside, I want them to be perfect. Demanding, yes, but asking too much, no. Otherwise I can save my shiny coppers and go to those mass market chains with designer-inspired pieces. My boyfriend did point out that many of the vintage pieces were handmade with old-school embroiderers on the ready. Well yes we are in the age of ready-to-wear and unlike the Mr. Balenciagas of the world, rare is the bird who is irresolutely committed to couture. Fine, I said, I will just go consignment all the time then. Even if this consignment binge lasts only a week, at least I won't be stressing about sizing issues. Cappucino bloating be damned.

looking towards Fall

Mayle, Vanya dress, La Garçonne

Alexander Wang, tulip tank dress, Net-a-porter.com

Ideeen, mesh jacket, at Oak NYC
It's the first day of July, already. The spring/summer items are on discount and as much as I should stock up on sunny day basics, I am preoccupied with the textures of fall. Ranging from feathered vests to biased and layered silks, the tailoring of the Fall/Winter 2008 season is off to a wonderful polish. Like AC on a thunderstorm afternoon, the constructed dresses are a special reprieve to the cocoon sacks of the past few seasons. I've also been picking up summer sale pieces that could translate to fall/winter. Above are a few of my favorites.